The zocalo (the historic center, here in the capital) has changed too. When I was here last, the barricades were only open to foot traffic around the zocalo. When I walked through the zócalo today, down Independencia street, the cars zoomed along past me. I saw only a few city cops at some of the entrances to the zócalo. They guard a few metal barricades that are not in use. Around town, the city has erected multilingual orange sign posts and maps of the city. Workers are still trying to remove graffiti from the stones inside the zócalo. They use high powered water hoses to remove the paint. My last trip ended around Christmas time, and so the city planted red poinsettias with messages thanking Governor Ulises and the federal police (PFP). Now, the plants are gone. Replacing them is simply bark and fertilizer. As much as I had problems with the messages, I prefer the poinsettias. We should remember that years ago, the zócalo didn’t look like this–covered in concrete and dirt. It used to be beautiful courtyard of greenery. This is another legacy of the governor.
Meanwhile, the prices of staple goods have increased. I thought that I would not notice the change, however it is quite significant. Usually a bag of fruits and vegetables at the market cost me about 50 pesos. I spent 70 yesterday. Bread is also significantly pricier.
People have asked me if it is possible to be a vegan in Oaxaca. The answer is a strong “Yes!” For lunch, I wandered down to the organic farmer’s market at El Pochote and ate a handmade veggie burger (one of the best I have ever eaten). I crossed the street and bought a few more items at a cooperative organic market. I bought vegan chocolate and some soy roles with fake meat. I have never seen anything like this dish, and so I look forward to eating it later.
I am in the process of posting photos…but I am having some technical difficulties…please be patient. I have some amazing photos from an art gallery that recreated the APPO graffiti.
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